High-Performance Engineering Filament for Demanding Applications.
Nylon (Polyamide / PA) is one of the most versatile engineering thermoplastics available — combining excellent toughness, fatigue resistance, low friction, and chemical resistance. In 3D printing, it's the material of choice for functional gears, snap-fit components, flexible hinges, cable management, and structural parts that need to flex and recover without breaking.
The nylon range at CONSUM3D extends from standard PA6 to carbon fiber and glass fiber reinforced composites for maximum stiffness and heat resistance, including high-temperature PAHT-CF for applications where standard nylon's heat resistance isn't enough.
- Polymaker Fiberon PA6-GF25 — 25% glass fiber reinforced PA6
- Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20 — 20% carbon fiber reinforced PA6
- Polymaker Fiberon PA12-CF10 — 10% carbon fiber reinforced PA12
- CarbonX Nylon 6+CF (PA6-CF, 3DXTech) — Made in USA, high-modulus CF
- Phaetus aeForce PAHT-CF — 15% CF high-temperature nylon (co-extrusion aeCoating)
- Phaetus aeCarbon NexPA-CF25 — 25% CF nylon (co-extrusion aeCoating)
- SainSmart Nylon+ Carbon Fiber (PA6-CF)
- SainSmart ePA12-CF — PA12 carbon fiber, 0.5kg
- SainSmart PA6 Nylon
ABS Filament — Frequently Asked Questions
What temperature should I print ABS at?
ABS prints at 230–250°C nozzle and 90–110°C bed. A fully enclosed printing environment is essential — ABS warps and delaminates on open-frame machines. Run the enclosure heated to 40–50°C and keep cooling fans off or at minimum. Without an enclosure, large ABS prints almost always crack or lift.
ABS vs ASA — which should I use?
If your part will ever see sunlight or outdoor conditions, use ASA. ASA prints at the same temperatures as ABS and has identical mechanical properties — but with built-in UV stabilizers that prevent the yellowing, chalking, and embrittlement ABS develops after months outdoors. For strictly indoor engineering parts, ABS and ASA are interchangeable.
Can ABS be acetone smoothed?
Yes — acetone vapor smoothing is one of ABS's best features. Exposing a finished print to acetone vapor (in a sealed container with a small amount of acetone) melts the surface layer slightly, eliminating visible layer lines and producing a smooth, uniform finish. This also improves waterproofing. Always use in a well-ventilated space away from heat sources — acetone vapor is flammable.
Why does my ABS keep warping?
Warping happens when outer layers cool and contract before the core does, pulling the print off the bed. Fix it with: a fully enclosed chamber (required for large prints), bed temperature 100–110°C, a draft shield in your slicer, and Magigoo or glue stick for adhesion. Large flat prints are most prone — add a brim of 5–10mm and use 100% infill in the first layer.
Does ABS need a hardened nozzle?
Standard (unfilled) ABS does not — brass handles it fine. Only the glass-fiber and carbon-fiber reinforced ABS variants (like Phaetus NexABS-GF25) require a hardened steel nozzle. Check the product spec before printing CF or GF reinforced materials with a standard brass nozzle.
Learn more: What Is ABS Filament? Complete Guide to Uses, Properties & Temperatures
